Name: Raijintek Scylla Pro CA360
Price: 418.50 USD
Rating: 8.90 (1 reviews)

Raijintek-Scylla-Pro-CA360-Water-Cooling-Kit-Review

If you don’t already know about Raijintek’s collection of Scylla cooling kits, then you are in for a treat. The Raijintek Scylla Pro CA360/CA240 is an all-in-one DIY kit that is ready for operation straight out of the box.

Aside from some pipe bending and cutting tools, this cooling kit includes absolutely everything you need to install as a standalone cooler or even as part of an existing setup.

Over the last few years, we have seen several top-ranking DIY cooling kits under the Scylla brand name. The Scylla Elite CA240 boasts similar specs as the one I will be reviewing here, with one major difference: The Elite line includes soft tubes, while the Scylla Pro delivers a set of 4 RAITUBO-H14 PETG hard tubes for easy mounting and smooth water flow.

In this review, I will go through my unboxing process and list all the included parts and components I have received in this kit. I will also document my setup steps. Afterward, I’ll review the various key factors that make the Raijitek Scylla Pro CA360 unique, such as its aesthetics and overall performance.

This review will help you determine whether this DIY cooling kit can bring real value to your gaming rig.

I did receive this product for free to review, but I was not paid to write anything specific in my review.

Overview

The Raijitek Scylla Pro CA360/CA240 is a powerful all-in-one cooling kit that brings a new level of elegance to the table.

With colorful lights decorating most major components, it is an aesthetic spectacle that is not too difficult to put together on your own – especially if you have experience with water coolers.

Some may find regular setup and maintenance of a DIY water cooling kit to be too inconvenient for them, but anyone who does more than just a little overclocking on their CPUs or high-end GPUs can certainly benefit from a custom cooling system that they have the ability to control on a deeper level.

You can purchase the Raijitek Scylla Pro CA360 on Amazon, Newegg, and other online computer component retailers.

Scope of Delivery and Included Components

The Scylla Pro CA360/CA240 is delivered in a rectangular cardboard box with a handle for easy transport. It is sealed with several interlocking flaps as well as durable tape, which is easy to open.

A printed label sticker adorns the front of the box, and it clearly displays all of the available components included in the box. You will see images and descriptions on this label, but no detailed specifications.

As soon as I opened the box, I saw some foam inserts that were presumably meant to protect and secure the included parts.

Every individual component comes in its own box, which is packaged neatly inside the big cardboard box. I opened each part one by one to ensure that every listed part was included and not broken.

Here is what you can find in a full, all-in-one Scylla Pro CA360/CA240 water cooling kit:

Component Name	Quantity
FORKIS PRO RBW CPU WATER BLOCK	1
RAIAQUA-T1 500ML COOLANT	2
EOS 12 RBW ADD 1025 FAN	3
ANTILA D5 EVO RBW SUPER FLOW PUMP	1
CALORE ELITE CA360 COPPER RADIATOR	1
RAITUBO-H14 500MM PETG TUBE	4
FITTINGS	6
L-FITTINGS	6

The kit also comes with an empty squirt bottle that you can fill with the coolant, as well as a 5-port control hub with a remote control and an M/B cable for connecting directly.

Let’s dive further into the details of each included part with a specific breakdown, and then I will talk about installation and performance.

FORKIS PRO RBW CPU WATER BLOCK

When it comes to materials, the absolute star of the show is copper. Many of the components that come with this DIY set are built with full copper and melted metal alloy, and the FORKIS water block is no exception. It is even plated with nickel and comes with a generic backplate.

The POM makes it so that there is no contact between it and the frame, eliminating the absolute need for thermal paste (though I have some extra on hand, just in case). It is a great cooling block for modders looking to maximize heat transfer output.

An unexpected part? The ARGB light! It connects to a 3-pin, 5V header. Make sure not to plug it into a 4-pin, 12V header, as these two are incompatible and can fry your motherboard – and everything else.

RAIAQUA-T1 500ML COOLANT

It was awesome to see that the cooling kit came with two 500ml bottles of RAIAQUA-T1, which is a really great coolant. It contains a lot of high-grade cooling ingredients like anti-rust and anti-freeze. This stuff really works – the box itself was cool to the touch when I pulled it from the package.

The coolant is clear, leaving no residue or stains behind. There are also some smaller bottles of dye in an assortment of colors so you can further customize your rig.

EOS 12 RBW ADD 1025 FANS

It’s really cool to see a DIY kit that comes with three fans. Though, this kit is also available with two fans, which can definitely be enough if you already have a couple of fans installed before setting this up.

You can find these separately via retail as well, but this one comes with the kit and includes a remote control. Just like the FORKIS cooling block, these fans have remote-controlled RGB lighting accessible via 5V pins.

ANTILA D5 EVO RBW SUPER FLOW PUMP

The versatile D5 pump is the cornerstone of this DIY set, promising steady flow rates for any overclocking system. And it looks impressive to boot. It comes with a SATA drive lead, which I plugged into a SATA splitter (sold separately from the kit) so that I would have enough connections to the power supply.

Like many of the other parts in this kit, it has an ARGB strip, which can be connected to the same controller that the plans are connected to. By the way, I daisy-chained the three fans together so I could synchronize things like fan speed, LED lighting, and more.

Of course, I cannot talk about the pump without mentioning the beautiful and super durable glass reservoir, which lights up the liquid in an array of colors, which is quite the spectacle when put into full use.

CALORE ELITE CA360 COPPER RADIATOR

This is a heavy and durable radiator with a great material structure. Though it is described as being made of all copper, like some of the other components in this kit, it is actually wrapped in aluminum.

It includes a few gaskets and different types of screws that you can use depending on whether you have additional fans in your setup. The radiator can be adapted with or without fans.

RAITUBO-H14 500MM PETG TUBES

The tubes are way longer than I expected them to be, but I discovered (the hard way) that it is always good to have a little more than you need. It took me a minute to properly cut the tubes to fit my chassis, which is why I’m glad this DIY kit comes with four 500mm tubes.

The tubes are nice and durable, and you can tell they are designed to safely transport liquid from the block to the pump, to the radiator, and so on.

FITTINGS AND L-FITTINGS

Fortunately, the kit contains all the fittings and 90-degree fittings you will need for just about any kind of setup. It is almost a guarantee that you will use up all 6 of the Raijitek-branded threaded connectors, but it also comes with 6 L-fittings that you might only need a few of depending on how much piping you use. (My setup required me to use all of them, and I might have even used a few extra were they available.)

Additional Tools Used

This was not included with the Raijintek Scylla Pro CA360 DIY kit, but it was sent to me for free so I could cut and bend tubes using the proper tools. This kit is also available by Raijintek, and it can be found online in multiple retail stores. These tools were absolutely essential to make sure the pipes fit in my case, so I highly recommend them.

Tube bending is pretty straightforward; using a heat gun or another consistent source of high heat, hold the plastic tube over the heat until it is very hot. It should become quite malleable, where it can be bent into really tight corners and curves to fit any setup.

Installation

I first removed my older cooling unit, which was an Xtreme X240 – another DIY cooling kit, though it’s very different from this high-level Raijintek set. Some of the specs and sizes of the components are comparable, but that is pretty much where the similarities end.

Installing the Raijintek Scylla Pro CA360 was new territory for me, but I quickly discovered that the kit is very accessible for beginners and pros alike.

Since the kit itself does not come with an instructional guide (save for the individual instructions attached to each component), I tried to closely match the Scylla Pro Installation Reference image, which you can see below:

Mounting the water block was pretty simple since I also had a standard setup already. One perk of the FORKIS PRO models is that they work on both AMD and Intel computers. Since I have an AMD Ryzen CPU, I was able to remove the Intel frame it was attached to and mount the AMD frame onto the block before installation.

I used four screws, washers, and spacers in each corner which I had to tighten individually to get it to stay secured on the motherboard. I almost forgot to connect the RGB connectors to the port so it could light up!

Next came the all-copper radiator. It was a little bit of a challenge to get it to fit in a way that would properly connect to both the water tank and the CPU block, but that is why Raijintek provided some extra L-fittings.

I ended up installing my radiator on the outside of the chassis, leaving more room on the inside for the fans and tubes.

You can also choose to install the fans inside or outside of the chassis and connect them to the radiator that way. The flexibility makes it a lot easier to make room inside while finding ways to connect them that don’t end up in a tangle of wires.

Fan installation was pretty straightforward, as my case already had all the available slots open. They can be plugged into the RGB addressable control block or into the fan headers directly.

Cutting and fitting the hard tubes was certainly the most time-consuming part of this process and one that required careful precision with the tube-cutting tools I received.

After a couple of tries, I finally had it figured out. I did indeed have to use all 6 of the threaded fittings to create a loop between the CPU water block, radiator, and pump.

There was not a lot of room between the pump and the radiator, so I made a tiny connection with two L-fittings. After I was done, I ended up using pretty much all of the L-fittings as well.

I am happy that Raijintek provided everything from the coolant to the squirt bottle because I found it to be pretty easy to use.

All you need to do is fill the bottle with coolant (making sure not to spill any or get it on your skin) and then use the bottle to fill up the circuit. You can also put it into the radiator directly, but I wanted to fill it up on my own.

Setup and installation are nearly complete:

A good word of advice is to first test out your new water cooling kit outside of your motherboard. You can connect your PSU using a paper clip or by buying a jumper bridge tool wherever it’s convenient.

Once the loop is fully closed, it is easy to apply liquid through the top of the radiator with a squirt bottle (or an extra pump tube if you have one).

My Setup

It is a good idea to run the water circuit at its maximum RPM (close to 900 RPM) for a few hours before it will work properly.

The system needs some time to get rid of air, and this is an important step to take as it prevents the system from drying up. Once it is consistently pumping coolant, it is ready for some testing.

Here’s my specs:

PROCESSOR	AMD RYZEN 7 1800X
GPU	AMD RADEON HELLHOUND 6650 XT
POWER SUPPLY	EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GA
RAM	CORSAIR VENGEANCE X2

I was thrilled to try out such a powerhouse of a cooling kit, especially compared to the weaker kit I was using before.

While my GPU isn’t the most impressive in the world (there’s still a shortage happening!), I think having these less-than-powerful specs goes to show how much of an improvement you can get just by having a high-quality water cooling system in your rig.

Temperature

Speaking of results, I was able to measure a lot from the BIOS. At a steady, idle pace, the CPU was definitely cooler at around 26°C, compared to my previous water cooling system that kept its idle temp around 35°C.

The EOS fans have a lot higher throughput during gaming, which bumped the average temperatures up to 55°C – 60°C. Temperatures remained steady right below 60°C during gaming, giving me better performance overall.

At a full CPU load, temperatures were in the 65°C – 68°C range, which is around a 10°C improvement from my previous liquid cooler. The highest GPU temperatures I dealt with during gaming did not rise above 81°C, though, which is still around a 5°C difference from my last cooler.

With my less-than-impressive system, I was not able to see what kind of performance I could get from something super high-level. For the most part, though, this really helped my system from the jump.

Noise Levels

Though the fans performed better during gaming, they were a little louder. The pump can make noise on its own, but the cooling power of the fans quiets it down significantly. The fans’ average noise output was between 24 and 25 dBA when idle, which is noticeable but not bothersome.

During heavier workloads, the noise levels rose a little bit to just 33 dBA. And when overclocking to the best of my CPU’s capacity, it did not reach more than 35 dBA. The pump was only slightly noisier, reaching up to almost 40 dBA when it was being worked hard.

All in all, the system is pretty quiet, and even the small amount of noise it makes is more consistent and soothing than a sputtering fan.

Aesthetics

The ARGB functionality of this water-cooling system makes it quite a spectacle to behold. The rainbow array of colors in an addressable format is a unique and, from my experience, still fairly new thing to see in cooling systems like this.

Remember that this DIY kit comes with 5V connectors only and will not work with a 12V header. Most motherboards come with both 5V and 12V headers, so you should not worry too much about connection issues.

The remote has a pre-installed battery, so you can immediately switch your LED lights – or turn them off completely.

Of course, the colors and RGB settings can be controlled through a built-in system, and it also comes with a remote control so you can quickly access some of your favorite lights and colors.

Don’t forget about the additional dye you can add to the coolant, which also makes the water flowing through the tubes change colors.

I think the ARGB components of the other parts provide more than enough color, but it is a fun idea to consider adding dye to the liquid constantly looping through your machine.

Final Verdict

Overall, I think the Raijintek Scylla Pro CA360 / CA240 is one of the more comprehensive cooling systems out there, and it works well with many types of setups. It comes with all the standard components and tools needed to adapt the kit to your specific rig.

As a PC enthusiast with a mid-range level of experience building my own rigs, I found certain parts of the installation process to be somewhat challenging, but I was ultimately satisfied with my results.

The biggest obstacles I faced were the pump and the tubes, as both were newer territories for me to explore in the world of PC modification.

Anyone with the capacity to work with a full, pre-packaged DIY kit will certainly be satisfied with the Raijintek Scylla Pro CA360/CA240. With a super high-quality radiator, a beautiful pump with a glass reservoir, hard tubes to ensure stability, controllable RGB colors, and a great CPU cooling block, the Scylla Pro CA360 offers great performance for great value.

Another big reason to get this kit is the price. Premium cooling kits like these typically cost around $500 or more, so finding out the kit is available for way below $400 was a delightful surprise, especially considering the quality and what’s included in the box.

The value here is superb, and I encourage all PC connoisseurs to check it out!

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